A few years ago, Warsaw was famous - or rather infamous - for being one of the least attractive of Eastern Europe's destinations. Much as we love the place, it can't be denied that there were plenty of points for the prosecution. To start with there was all that spirit-crushing Soviet architecture, a far cry from the dainty sweep of Cracow or Prague. And then there was the service: 'If your encounters with Poles are restricted to waiters, shop assistants and hotel receptionists, you'll have a very different experience of the country than if you manage to establish some more personal encounters'' wrote one seasoned traveller, describing the status quo in as chivalrous a fashion as was possible. Less gallant writers, amazed at the way in which they were barked at in shops, described the service as simply offensive.
But times have changed. And although the bitter waiter is still not an entirely extinct species, Warsaw and the Varsovians are now the toast of today's explorers. Writers were once running away in terror, yet now they're gushing to praise the place.
Warsaw's still not the prettiest city you'll ever see, but there's no doubt that the capital has found a groove over the last few years. Even the much hated Soviet Palace of Culture has begun to take on a less intimidating air, and today it looks more like something from a Batman film than a bombastic relic of Soviet rule.
Over in the Palace's Congress Hall, which was once the venue for rallies of the Party faithful, you can now check out concerts by a stream of rock and jazz legends. The Rolling Stones, Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald have all weaved their magic here, whilst this May, Dire Straits' Mark Knopfler will be stepping up to rock the joint.
For dance music aficionados, the good news is that Warsaw's clubland continues to go from strength to strength. The Poles have always known how to party, which it won't take you long to discover after hitting the capital. Have a browse through our listings for some choice cuts.
Last but lot least, don't miss out on a look at Warsaw's galleries. Poland's contemporary art scene is thriving, and you can drop by the Zamek Ujastowski (Centre of Contemporary Art) for an intro. Fans of French art have a treat in store with the Royal Castle's lavish Spring show. Don't miss it!
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