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In the spring of 1928, the Austrian writer Stefan Zweig made a journey through Poland: "In Warsaw there was nothing to indicate that twice, three and four times victorious and vanquished armies had marched through the city. The cafes shone with elegant women. The trim and slender officers promenading through the streets seemed more like practised actors impersonating soldiers than like fighters. Everywhere one sensed activity, confidence and a justifiable pride in the new Republic of Poland which had risen so vigorously from the ashes of the centuries."
Barely a decade after Zweig's journey, Poland was plunged into further conflict. This time the damage was complete. Hardly a building was left standing and the human toll was unprecedented. The ensuing Soviet regime left a mixed legacy, with a painstakingly reconstructed Old Town, New Town and Royal Way, and a sprawling mish-mash of modern blocks. Thus what should one expect today from a visit to Warsaw - a destination that is often overshadowed by the more obvious charms of cities like Prague, Gdansk or Cracow?
One cannot understand the city without a great sense of loss. But defying all the odds, Warsaw is back. This is the dynamo of the country, and for today's young Poles, the past is the past, and Warsaw is where the future is being shaped.
On one hand Warsaw can be experienced as a rapidly developing modern city - a fizzing capital, centred around Marshal Street and Solidarity Avenue, where Poles come from far and wide to make their fortune. Warsaw is the business capital and where trends are set. It is also the academic centre of the country, and despite the venerable image of the Jagiellonian University in Cracow, Warsaw's is the country's leading university, and its offshoots, such as the School of Economics, are leaders in their fields. The lively student population numbers some 150,000 alone.
On the other hand, Warsaw is an immensely moving place to connect with the past. Its rebuilt city centre is at its most compelling in the Old Town with its proud Royal Castle. In addition, the former Jewish ghetto is a stark reminder of the unforgiving hand of history.
Further out there are a sprinkling of jewels to savour. These have fared much better than the landmarks in the city centre. The Lazienki park area, with its palaces and gardens, is a favourite with Poles and foreigners alike, as is Wilanow, often called Poland's Versailles.
Warsaw can be a frustrating city. But it is not without its rewards. Missing the capital means bypassing a city that is key to an understanding not only of Poland but of Europe itself. Whilst many love to hate it, there are plenty who love Warsaw for what it is. Today, having shaken off the cold war slumbers, Zweig's words are beginning to hold true once more. Warsaw again buzzes with activity - it has risen from the ashes. | |
Above: By the power of Greyskull!
Below: By the power of grey Soviet architecture... 
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